Hi there - do you think it is necessary to carry a torque wrench when travelling with a caravan? It's never been in my tool box but at a recent caravan service it was mentioned as something I should carry.  Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Hi, I always torque the wheel nuts and bolts to make sure that I do not overtighten or leave them too loose even on my vehicles.

Its possible to stretch the wheel studs if you overtighten so for me a good toll to have.

Hi Sue. As Theo mentions, a torque wrench is good to have for wheel nuts/bolts. I also make use of it for that function. You get different types with various torque ranges, buy the one suitable for the torque range that you require. Weather you want to carry one with or not is a personal choice. I always carry a toolbox with as well. 

If I am not mistaken the torque setting for the wheel nuts on a caravan ranges between 80 to 90Nm. I think it is the only place that you will need a torque setting when on the road with your caravan.

I bought myself a cheap one from MIDAS and it works fine.  Not only does it provide you with the ability to torque set the wheel nuts, the handle is also longer than a normal wheel spanner and it allows you to loosen the wheel nuts a bit easier.  Just make sure it has the direction flip over catch like a normal ratchet handle.

You must remember that the wheels on your caravan are the only part of the caravan that can leave you stranded alongside the road.  So my advice is take care of those wheels and tyres.

I have never see a torque wrench at any tire company.

Pieter-B wrote:

I have never see a torque wrench at any tire company.

SUPA-QUICK Centurion uses them.

Fore-More Tyres in Centurion uses them.

SUPA-QUICK Edenvale uses them.

These are the stores that I know off.

I think, in the end it is a personal choice that you can make.  In the Automotive Industry, machine industry and even defence industry it is comon practice to torque nuts and bolts even as small as M3 sizes.

To be precise all nuts and bolts has a dry and wet torque specification.  It is your decision if you want to use it or not.  My father always joked, tighten until it strips then half a turn back.

I think that the reason why torque setting are more commonly used nowadays is because of the different/various types of material the bolts and nuts are applied to.

I have always just tighten the wheel nut on my trailers and vehicle by hand.  That is until I took the time to read the manual that was supplied with my caravan, because there was a sticker on the side of the caravan that stated to "Always tighten wheel nuts as Specified in the manual".

And then I saw that the tyre dealers are using torque wrenches as well.  If they don't you can ask for it to be checked.

Leon wrote:

SUPA-QUICK Centurion uses them.

Fore-More Tyres in Centurion uses them.

SUPA-QUICK Edenvale uses them.

These are the stores that I know off.

I think, in the end it is a personal choice that you can make.  In the Automotive Industry, machine industry and even defence industry it is comon practice to torque nuts and bolts even as small as M3 sizes.

To be precise all nuts and bolts has a dry and wet torque specification.  It is your decision if you want to use it or not.  My father always joked, tighten until it strips then half a turn back.

I think that the reason why torque setting are more commonly used nowadays is because of the different/various types of material the bolts and nuts are applied to.

Over-torquing wheel nuts stretches and weakens studs, warps brake rotors (causing shudder/pulsing), cracks or damages wheels (especially alloy), strips threads, and can lead to catastrophic wheel loss, creating extreme safety hazards like losing control or getting stranded with a flat tire you can't remove. It's crucial to use a torque wrench and follow manufacturer specifications in a star pattern for even pressure, as over-tightening with impact wrenches is a common, dangerous mistake

they become loose, causing vibrations, accelerated wear on parts, and a severe risk of the wheel wobbling, detaching from the vehicle, or even falling off while driving, which can lead to catastrophic accidents. Under-tightening prevents proper clamping force, allowing road forces to loosen them further, damaging studs, rotors, and potentially causing total wheel loss

all my vehicles have torque wrenches in and every driver get shown how to use it properly.  i have seen many a rim get over torqued as the operator of the torque wrench thinks klik plus a extra bit.

Tyre places without torque wrenches tend to overtighten the wheel nuts and then you can’t get them loose on the side of the road with your caravan whimpy wheel spanner.

I tourque my wheel nuts to 95Nm at home.

Example of a caravan whimpy spanner used to undo over tightened wheel nuts.

Uit Jurgens CI handbook

On the side of the road I now use my mover Gedore socket wrench and then torque the nuts when I get home.

Kyk bietjie na julle Alko koppelstange. Daar is twee boute, ongeveer onder die oplig handvatsel, wat horisontaal deur die eenheid gaan.

Tot groot ontnugtering het ek by 2 geleenthede die voorste ene effe los gevind. Nadat ek 5000km voltooi het, vind ek die voorste bout mors af. Op een of ander manier het die 8.8 bout gebreek asof met 'n mes gesny was. Blykbaar is die 8.8 of 8.5 op die boutkop 'n spesifikasie van die "torque" waarmee dit vasgedraai moet word. Nog 'n plek waar wringsleutel handig is. 

As daai boute uitkom,knak jou wa se koppelstang net daar.

Thanks so much for the responses. The caravan service centre told me they torque to 110nm - I have a Sprite Swing.

Decided to get a torque wrench - and will probably leave it at home - unless on a long trip - and check the torque before every trip.

Grompie wrote:

Kyk bietjie na julle Alko koppelstange. Daar is twee boute, ongeveer onder die oplig handvatsel, wat horisontaal deur die eenheid gaan.

Tot groot ontnugtering het ek by 2 geleenthede die voorste ene effe los gevind. Nadat ek 5000km voltooi het, vind ek die voorste bout mors af. Op een of ander manier het die 8.8 bout gebreek asof met 'n mes gesny was. Blykbaar is die 8.8 of 8.5 op die boutkop 'n spesifikasie van die "torque" waarmee dit vasgedraai moet word. Nog 'n plek waar wringsleutel handig is. 

As daai boute uitkom,knak jou wa se koppelstang net daar.

Grompie kan jy fotos stuur?

Grompie wrote:

Kyk bietjie na julle Alko koppelstange. Daar is twee boute, ongeveer onder die oplig handvatsel, wat horisontaal deur die eenheid gaan.

Tot groot ontnugtering het ek by 2 geleenthede die voorste ene effe los gevind. Nadat ek 5000km voltooi het, vind ek die voorste bout mors af. Op een of ander manier het die 8.8 bout gebreek asof met 'n mes gesny was. Blykbaar is die 8.8 of 8.5 op die boutkop 'n spesifikasie van die "torque" waarmee dit vasgedraai moet word. Nog 'n plek waar wringsleutel handig is. 

As daai boute uitkom,knak jou wa se koppelstang net daar.

For interest, the 8.8 or 10.9 on the bolt head refers to the tensile strength of that bolt material. So,  the first "8" relates to 800 MPa tensile or breaking strength, and the ".8" relates to the yield strength being 80% of the 800MPa, which will be 640 MPa. That means that if a load of more than 640 MPa is applied to the bolt, it will begin to stretch and permanently elongate, causing the fixture to become loose. In the case of 10.9 bolts, 1000MPa breaking strength, and yield of 900MPa.

10.9 are far less fatigue resistant and therefore snap easier. 8.8 is more flexible and is used in vibration prone applications like most Aircraft AN bolts.

Aircraft propeller bolts snap after a while of use if you use 10.9.

mulderpm wrote:

10.9 are far less fatigue resistant and therefore snap easier. 8.8 is more flexible and is used in vibration prone applications like most Aircraft AN bolts.

Aircraft propeller bolts snap after a while of use if you use 10.9.

Totally agree, 8.8 will be the better choice. 

Paul, ek gaan probeer. Ek ken mos nie die forum se stelsel nie. 

ek verwys na die swart bout in die foto. Dit is die "high tensile strength" bout wat ek vervang het. Net regs van hom, onder die rubber kous, waar die kous begin, is die tweede bout.

Ekskuus, ek kry nie dit gelaai nie. Ek sal dit op die ander forum laai, waar ons ook ingeteken is. .  

Paul, ek gaan probeer. Ek ken mos nie die forum se stelsel nie. 

ek verwys na die swart bout in die foto. Dit is die "high tensile strength" bout wat ek vervang het. Net regs van hom, onder die rubber kous, waar die kous begin, is die tweede bout.

Ekskuus, ek kry nie dit gelaai nie. Ek sal dit op die ander forum laai, waar ons ook ingeteken is. .