I agree with you wholeheartedly cos none of them work.  I have found one that is totally FREE and we are all born with it : ATTITUDE and a light foot. It seems that this is the only one that really works. 

I cannot agree that none work! I do accept driving style and vehicle condition do have an impact.

In stead of claiming none work, please rather tell us which one's you have tested!

1) When towing out of Carletonville, to the north, there are long slight inclines where my cars performance was marginal - when towing there, 6th gear was just too weak to maintain 100kph and would slowly lose speed and dropping to 5th would accelerate back to 100kph. Since fitting a gadget, it maintains the 100kph, in 6th with the speed control set in both cases.

2) It did not matter how carefully I travelled, but at 100kph normal travelling, I never bettered 21.5 km per litre. After installation the car is returning more than 22km per litre - since Monday until last night 963 km at 22.8 km per litre.

Years back, I also clearly noticed an improvement on an Escourt of 0.5 km per litre on 14 km per litre on a different product. This extra +- 30 km on a tank meant I could re-fuel every fifth day i.s.o. every 4th day.

Fuel saver is in your right shoe and mind

The only saving is because mentally you want to cover the costs you threw away and or don't want to admit being a bit of a chop.

If anything worked it would be fitted on all cars.

Now forget this thread altogether and have a good weekend.

Steve'Auto ships your engine for more k wats and power, when you whant to try the power more petrol

A well tuned and proper service, and your driving style are the only fuelsavers that work. A good state of mind not to race the motor and keep within the power band will assist in saving.

Greetings.

Interesting statestics

None, ever !

Dr,

Now you are REALLY asking me something. In my stupid days a few years ago I tried a whole range of goodies and none of then proved effective. The only ones that come to mind at the moment was a gadget that Stromberg made which if I remember was either fitted to the coil or ignition wires and something that had magnets in that wrapped around the fuel line (petrol and diesel) and probably some others I can't recall.

At the moment I drive a '95 Isuzu 2.8 D/C and am getting around 12.5 km's/liter around town and the last time I towed my caravan around 10km/liter (with aircon on) which I think is fair.

I think that a light foot and conservative driving is more of an answer as well as taking the usual precautions such as keeping the windows closed, etc. The main thing I find is keeping to regular services and changing the oil at the correct mileages.

If I think of anymore gadgets, I will post it here but honestly I think think the expense of fitting any of them does not justify the cost.

If something sounds too true then it is

Dr Drake

You touched an interresting topic here.

It seems as if people do not play around with any "gadgets" to save fuel. Most replies were to change you driving style. I also did it with the Toyta D4D. Instead of driving 140km and get 9.3km/lt I now drive 120km/h and get 11.2km/lt without towing. Towing this weekend = 8.2km/lt.

There is a reason for not playing with "gadgets". Believe me you WILL loose your warrantee on the vehicle. Once the vehicle is out of warrantee/maintenance-service plan the vehicle is either Traded in or you are so used to the fuel consumption that you do not want to make changes.

And again...if anything go wrong, it will be blamed on the "gadget" Years ago it was relative cheap to repair a vehicle because they did not have so many "Electronics" in them. I have a theory on this as well that no-one could prove me wrong..........I believe cars are programmed electronically to die at a certain mileage!

Grumpy

There was a turbine unit under the carb. that was more of a noise genrator there was the fuel pressure regulator, Stromberg igniter that was on the coil wire to the cap would increase spark and give better burning, bardoll that will give less friction, tyre controllers to keep tyre pressures correct and therefor save fuel, special exhaust systems, air intake systems, polished heads and ports and this actually gave you a bit more power. And there is a lot more that i cannot remember.

The right foot and a good mindset is a real saver. Do not labour an engine and use the gears. You can set an engine for more power and then it will save in the long run as you can go further in a specific gear.

Dr if you fitted the chip it will work as it overide factory specs to adchieve a better fuel consumption and better power band. But that is on computor driven vehicles.

All motor vehicles these days make use of various techniques to get lower fuel consumption and higher power. Their air intakes and exhaust systems are better develloped and so is inner motor engeneering.

Greetings

Not sure that it would apply to your situation, but this is what I found with my previous vehicle, a 2003 D/c Hilux 2700i. With a full 70l in the tank, towing my smallish caravan from Cape Town to Robertson with 2 adults and a toddler onboard....I could'nt make a return trip. At 260k's the fuel light came on, just made it to the Engen near Kraaifontein!.

So, clearly a problem child. Add to which, it was very tiring to drive, needing conatant gear changes to try maintain 80-90kph.

I fitted a Powerflow exhaust (just the basic unit) and found a huge difference. Towing with my full kit (full tent, rather than rally awning, extra chairs/tables etc) I could get to 350k's before the fuel light was in range. It also made a big difference in that I effectively gained a gear. By way of example, when going over Sir Lowries Pass from the CT side there is a robot at the bottom that very annoyingly denies you momentum before the climb. Previously I would have to drop as low as 2nd gear. Same load and weather conditions/time of day I found 3rd gear comfortable with power to spare.

Not sure you would want your Sonic giving off a Sonic Boom with a new exhaust, but that is my experience, for what it's worth.

DR,

I cannot comment on gadgets for fuel saving, wish I could.  Different fuels from different fuel stations or even from same station at different times can make a big difference in fuel consumption.

I while ago I had a C270CDI which was giving me on some real good days 4.8 l/100km (yes, really nursing it – Between C/ville and Pta).  Then after a while on the same route, same time of day and the exact same nursing attitude I would not get better than 5.4 l/100km.  I would not even want to mention making use of 500 ppm diesel fuel.

I am still sorry I sold the Merc, because of its good fuel consumption.

I had the opportunity to drive a diesel Sonic a while ago and was impressed with its fuel "non" consumption.  As you say easy to get more than 20km/l.

I think you have to get yourself a real fuel guzzler, like my 4.1 Senator I had.  Towing gave me between 5 and 6km/l.  There's a reason to look for better consumption.

BTW I think that Sonic is a great vehicle.

Lastly, how much more fuel economy do you want from your Chevy?

Ian,

Personally I am going to put my feet in my mouth as I am fairly sure that is possible with the Sonic.  I you have not driven it be careful.

Die mos die dr se kar hy kan kry wat hy wil Ian

Ian wrote:

DR, seems you are still not convinced...You asked so lets try and answer your query in full.

Magnets wrapped around the fuel lines, and spark frequency convertors like the Stromberg are in the category of snake oil...

The only way to improve fuel consumption in a new vehicle fitted with a management computer is to re-chip AND blue print the engine.

Blue printing involves gas flowing the cylinder head around the inlets and exhaust outlets, tapering the valves to their seats, matching the inlet and exhaust manifold gaskets to the reshaped ports, and fitting tuned inlet and exhaust manifolds. The pistons are balanced for volumetric equality and the engine is balanced. A through flow exhaust and low loss air cleaner are then also fitted.

Having done this the specialist tuning shop will want to know what you are hoping to achieve and you will reply that you are looking for fuel efficiency when towing your caravan at 100 km/h on the highveld in 5th gear, for example.

Thus advised the shop will put your vehicle on the rolling road dyno and load it up simulate your vehicle and caravan on the road at 100km/h. The computer in the vehicle is repeatedly reprogrammed with new ignition advance curves if petrol and new fuel mixture curves, each time measuring power/torque and fuel consumption, engine temp, etc.
The entire process will take around 2-3 days and cost you around R30000-R50000 (my guess).

After this major surgery and expense the vehicle will have noticeably more oomph at the 100 km/h towing speed and you might see an improvement of 1 litre per 100km, but not more (my guess).

Some tuning shops simply put the vehicle, in standard form, on the rolling road dyno, and play with the management curves mentioned above. The improvement will be less marked, but the cost will be a fraction of the full treatment above.

Effectively, the power curve of the vehicle is being narrow-banded to special circumstances. The manufacturer, in designing the vehicle, will do its best to avoid narrow banding the power curve as the vehicle has to operate at vastly different places and loads world-wide and the characteristics are "broad-banded" (compromised) to suit all these requirements.

This is why if you are really prepared to, you might get some additional fuel consumption using the methods mentioned.

Ek het onlangs n program gesien waar hulle daai magnetiese Stromberg fuel saver deeglik getoets het. Die toets het uitgewys dat dit absoluut GEEN effek op brandstof verbruik of performance het nie.

100%foefie

I drive a stock standard Fortuner V6 x 4l x 24 valves. Weather I tow up country or down country. Weather I tow the Fleetline or the 4x4 Metalian. Deep into Botswana's sand or on hard surface. Into the wind or down wind . The car is simply to stupid to see the difference. It almost gives me the SAME fuel consumption. 6 km/l. No matter what I do, I cannot improve on this. 

So. Exept the fact. 

I have been told that the Fortuner is an aambei-kar. Every asshole has one. (Joke) I LOVE that car. More power than brains. There is  a reason for it being the best seller. 

Caravan Man wrote:

I drive a stock standard Fortuner V6 x 4l x 24 valves. Weather I tow up country or down country. Weather I tow the Fleetline or the 4x4 Metalian. Deep into Botswana's sand or on hard surface. Into the wind or down wind . The car is simply to stupid to see the difference. It almost gives me the SAME fuel consumption. 6 km/l. No matter what I do, I cannot improve on this. 

 

So. Exept the fact. 

 

I have been told that the Fortuner is an aambei-kar. Every asshole has one. (Joke) I LOVE that car. More power than brains. There is  a reason for it being the best seller. 

DJ, I bet you DID NOT buy your Fortuner to get a good fuel consumption. It is the raw 4L V6 power that attracted you. Enjoy it.

I had a Ford Territory (also a 4 L 6 cilinder) and absolutely loved it. Yes, heavy on fuel but driving it solo and conservatively on the open road, I did get less that 10L/100km. Driving in town solo was 17L/100km.

Me inturn has a stock standard 3.2 Ranger and I found that the best way to get better fuel consumption is to relax and enjoy the road keep the speed to the lowest you are prepared to drive it.

It even works when towing.

Leon wrote:

Me inturn has a stock standard 3.2 Ranger and I found that the best way to get better fuel consumption is to relax and enjoy the road keep the speed to the lowest you are prepared to drive it.

It even works when towing.

 

It is so true Leon. I once towed my Swing with the Territory to San Cha Len in Warmbaths. By doing 100km/h, I managed on the flat stretch 10L/100km on the onboard computer.

Geert se plasing herinner my aan vyftig jaar gelede to ons almal ons Anglias en Cortinas "opgehot" het met baie van die metodes wat beskryf word.  As jy regtig geld gehad het om te mors, het jy ' "high lift cam" en 'n "freeflow exaust" aangebring en probeer om 'n "Weber carb" te kry wat naastenby gepas het.  Die uitlaatpyp het baie meer geraas gemaak- of dit meer krag gegee het, is nie so seker nie.  Snaaks, dit is nie meer in aanvraag nie. Dan was jy heeltemal oortuig dat jy meer krag en spoed gehad het- verbruik was nie 'n groot oorweging nie.

Ek het nie geweet hierdie is steeds op die mark nie.....

Magtie! Ek het seker 40 of 50 jaar laas van hulle gehoor.  Hulle het toe nie gewerk nie en sal ook nie nou werk nie.  Destyds hoef jy net een op die kabel tussen die klos en die vonkverdeler te geplaas het, nou een op elke volkprop. Gaan ons dalk weer STP stickers en plastieklemoentjies kry?  Hulle het ook glo gehelp om die karre vinnger te laat loop.

To my way of thinking amongst other possible overlooked issues the question to ask is what the actual benefit of a conversion be over the ownership period of your standard car, and then compare the advantage the risks and outlay to have such a conversion done.

I see plug and play chips are installed including a dyna tune for around R 6000. Sure there are cheaper options, but let us take that as an example. At say R 16 per litre I can buy 375 litres of diesel with R 6000. Assuming my diesel Fortuner averages 8 kilometers per liter and I travel 7000 kilometers per year, being our second car mostly used for towing, I will be spending R 14000 per year on fuel.

If the conversion results in a 10% saving, it will result in a R 1400 saving per year. (Apparently a fuel saving is only possible if you do not make use of the increase in power. With a caravan behind I will find it almost impossible to not use the power at my disposal)

Assuming I keep the car for 10 years. If I took the R 6000 and invested it at a mere 7% per annum, I will have R 11802 after 10 years. On the other hand, a R 1400 lesser fuel bill per annum wiil have resulted in one spending R 14000 less on fuel over 10 years.  Note - I do not use the word save here, since a saving in my book is moneys one has accumulated. Granted, there are more to consider than straight line calculations.

Amongst others unintended consequences or overlooked realities to consider are warrantee implications, the reason such modifications were not done in the factory, the reliability history of chipped engines and the unwillingness of factory appointed dealers to trade chipped / engine modified vehicles in.

Most of the above don't make a lot of sense to me, I have always been under he impression that if you rally need to arrive at accurate results and conclusions on these matters you would need to perform all tests in controlled conditions .ie  in a wind tunnel  using a multitude of controls and measuring  instruments.

What I do believe is that your driving "attitude" is the most control you can personally have on your car's fuel consumption.  

Finally, If you use an extra 2 or 3 liters of fuel on a trip down to Durban, this will cost you an extra ~ R35.00, so what? The first couple of beers you have when you arrive will cost you as much anyway.

PS. Can anyone really claim they drive exactly the same all the time ??????

As someone previously said on this Forum,it's your car, you decide what the consumption is even if everybody else knows differently.  If you do modifications, you decide it saves you fuel, whatever the real facts are, you paid money for whatever, so you see what you like to see.  As far as I and my vehicles go, I will not tamper with it in any way that might do harm- I have paid a lot for it after all.

Greeting Dr.

A couple of questions if I may, and please excuse me if I have missed anything along the way.

I am somehow unable to find what car you drive that gives you 28 k/l, please assist.

I am not aware of the prices of any so called gadgets, could you give me some Idea of  the  installed prices of one of  these "gadgets".

As a financial man, could you tell me how many Kilometers it would take to cover the cost of one of these "gadgets" at your targeted saving  of  half a liter per 100 Km.

Finally do, do your positive conclusions take  into account the following variables, which if they change in any way, they will effect the fuel consumption of any vehicle either positively or negatively ?

Altitude,  Temperature, Weather, acceleration, aircon, inclines, declines, RPM, overtaking speed, head wind, tail wind, cross wind, number of gear changes, distance and speed traveled behind slower vehicles and lastly your physical condition &  time of day.

When I am finely in the clear about these points,  I should be able to get a better understanding of how a specific gadget will give you a much better fuel saving than the right attitude and a controlled Right foot.

Best wishes for the year ahead.